To help you make informed Diamond buying decisions
Each diamond is a unique gift of nature, at least a billion years old and meant to be cherished for a lifetime. Every diamond is very unique however they are graded according to very few guiding criteria.
But what to consider when buying diamonds? Here’s the facts.
What You Should Know About Diamonds:
If you are considering buying a diamond you are about to enter an enchanted world of romance, legend and history. Indeed, it was said that Cupid’s arrows were tipped with diamonds. The Ancient
Greeks believed that diamonds were splinters of stars that fell to earth, and some said they were the
tears of Gods. Diamonds have been worshipped and sought after for thousands of years and have
today become the ultimate gift of love.
Why Choose a Diamond?
The reasons for buying a diamond are as diverse as the people who desire them.
• Diamonds are ancient:
Formed millions of years ago, the youngest diamond being 900 million years old, they have stood the
test of time and are a symbol of eternity.
• Diamonds are forever beautiful:
Their fire, brilliance and scintillation never fades. Each diamond is a unique gift of nature,
meant to be cherished for a lifetime.
• Diamonds are durable:
A diamond is the hardest natural substance known on our planet. The very word ‘diamond’ comes from the Greek term “adamas” meaning unconquerable. They resist deterioration and you can be confident that the diamond you buy today will shine as brilliantly when your great-grandchildren wear it.
• Diamonds are rare:
For every carat of rough diamonds recovered, more than 250 tonnes of ore have to be mined and
processed. Only 20% will then be of gem quality. Furthermore each stone loses, on average, more than half its original weight during the cutting and polishing process.
Choosing Your Diamond:
Two diamonds may at first glance look alike, but the truth is that they are very different. Every diamond
is unique, no two are alike. Although they may be of equal size, they will have unequal characteristics.
The value of a diamond depends on quality. The quality of a diamond depends on four characteristics called the 4C’s: Cut, Colour, Clarity, Carat
It is the combination of these four factors that determines the value of each diamond.
Colour:
The colour of a diamond refers to the relative amount of yellow, brown or gray body colour that a stone
possesses. Diamonds may appear colourless when seen alone (and the very best approach this) but
trained eyes and close comparison to master stones will reveal tints of colour in the majority of stones.
Diamonds with no trace of colour are extremely rare and the closer they are to no colour, the more
rare and valuable they are.
The Gemological Institute of America (G.I.A.) grading scale is alphabetical beginning with the letter ‘D’
and moving through to “Z’, with ‘D’ being void of any body colour and ‘Z’ having a light yellow, brown
or gray colour
| GIA Colour: | D E F | G H I J | K L M | N O P Q R | S T U V W X Y Z |
| GIA Scale: | Colourless | Near colourless | Faint yellow | Very light yellow | Light yellow |
Below is a view of real diamonds with colours ranging from E-Z
Diamonds form under intense heat and pressure, and traces of other elements may have been
incorporated into their atomic structure. This accounts for the colour variances. These include red, purple, pink, green, orange, yellow, blue, brown and black. These rare and unique diamonds are termed
“Fancy Colours” and are graded based on the hue, tone and saturation of their colour (much like
Coloured Gemstones). The more intense and pure the colour, the more valuable they are.
The rarest of the fancy colours is red.
Clarity:
Clarity is an indication of the diamond’s purity. In all diamonds except the most rare, tiny traces of
minerals, gases, or other elements were trapped inside during the crystallization process. These
internal birthmarks, known as inclusions, and external characteristics called blemishes make each
diamond unique. These fingerprints are also used to distinguish one diamond from another. Clarity
characteristics are evaluated under 10x magnification, by trained diamond graders, based on the
number, nature, size, location and colour of each characteristic. Flawless diamonds are extremely
rare and command the highest prices, but finding a diamond with minute inclusions can reduce the
cost of the stone without detracting from its beauty or durability.
| Clarity Grade | Description |
| FL Flawless | No internal inclusions and external blemishes when observed by a skilled grader under 10x magnification |
| IF Internally Flawless | No internal inclusions, exceedingly tiny surface imperfections when observed by a skilled grader under 10x magnification |
| VVS1 VVS2 Very, Very Slight Inclusions | Minute inclusions that are very difficult, even for the professional, to see under 10x magnification |
| VS1 VS2 Very Slight Inclusions | Minor or small inclusions in appearance that are difficult, even for the professional, to see under 10x magnification |
| SI1 SI2 (SI3) Slight Inclusions | Inclusions that are noticeable or fairly easy to see under 10x magnification. Imperfections in the SI1 grade are not visible in a face up position to the unaided eye. |
| I1 I2 I3 (P1 P2 P3) Included | Inclusions that are obvious under 10x magnification, can be seen with the unaided eye, or inclusions that could affect the potential durability of the stone. |
Cut:
The quality of cut is crucial to the diamond’s final beauty and value. And of all the 4Cs, it is the most complex and technically difficult to analyze. However, it is one of the most important.
The term ‘Cut’ can mean many things. In the jewellery industry, it is used to describe the shape, cutting
style, proportions and finish of a diamond. The most popular shapes are pictured below.
Depending on how well the diamond is cut will determine its ability to reflect light from one facet to
another and then back out through the top of the diamond. A round brilliant diamond has 57-58 facets
in exact geometric relation to one another. A well cut stone will dramatically increase its beauty which is
dependent upon three factors: brilliance, dispersion (or fire) and scintillation (or sparkle). It is the skill of
the cutter that unlocks the natural beauty of a diamond, revealing all of its hidden fire, brilliance and
sparkle.
Illustrations showing dispersion & scintillation
These proportions & angles play a significant role in cut grading
So, why aren’t all diamonds ideally proportioned? The answer is quite simple. Diamonds are sold by
weight. Stones cut to ideal proportions waste more of the diamond crystal, therefore weigh less than
stones that are cut to maximize weight.
Carat:
A carat is the universal measure of weight for a diamond. One carat is divided into 100 ‘points’, so the
weight of a diamond of 50 points is 0.50ct, or half a carat. A carat is equal to one-fifth of a gram.
The larger a diamond is the rarer it is. However, bigger is not always better, as a heavy stone might fall
short in the other three grading categories. But large diamonds of equal quality to small diamonds are
more valuable, as larger stones are rarer. Diamonds are bought and sold on a pricing concept known
as ‘per carat’. As diamonds get larger, the price per carat increases due to its rarity factor, so a
diamond that weights 2 ct will be worth more than twice as much as a 1 ct diamond.
How to make “Your Brilliant Choice”
There are more “C”s to consider:
Cost:
One of he most important “C”s to think about is cost. All that a diamond symbolizes is priceless. Whilst
most things fade or wear out quickly, your diamond will be with you forever.
But you have to be practical. The few times you hear about cost is as a “salary guideline” or “advice”
to spend about two months salary on a diamond for your engagement ring. The reality is there is no
“guideline”.
You know your financial situation better than anyone. You have to decide on a budget that will satisfy
your needs but doesn’t close the bank account. Juerg P. Muff will use his experience to search for your perfect diamond: A balance that optimises the many different combinations of the 4C’s accordingly.
Caution:
There are a number of ways that diamonds can be artificially “treated”. The treatments include
enhancing the diamonds clarity by “laser drilling” and/or “fracture filling”. Colour enhancements can
now either whiten some stones appearances or create artificially coloured diamonds by “hpht”,
“irradiation” and other treatments.
Some of these enhancements are not permanent and the diamonds can be damaged during jewellery
manufacture or repair. The majority of these enhanced diamonds are sold through the Internet and
are typically offered at significant savings.
Confidence:
Knowledge of the diamond industry and the nature of diamonds requires years of extensive study. It is
absolutely vital that you purchase your diamond from a reputable jeweller, one that you can trust.
Juerg P. Muff is a Swiss trained jeweller with over 35 years of experience and contacts in the diamond
trade. He operates an established “brick and mortar” jewellery business in New Zealand, is a member
of the Jewellers & Watchmakers NZ, Goldsmith Guild of NZ and the Gemological Association of NZ.
New Zealand is a signatory to The Kimberley Process, and Juerg only sells diamonds that have
been purchased from legitimate and verified sources, and are therefore considered conflict free.
Juerg holds a Diamond Grading Certificate GAA and constantly sources and imports diamonds direct
from around the globe. He can show you the minute details between individual stones to help you make informed decisions.
All diamonds .4ct and above have been analyzed and graded and come complete with a Diamond Grading Analysis / Certificate. All diamond engagement rings are supplied with a complimentary
independent valuation.
Juerg says: “I am aware that this might be one of the most important purchases you will ever make.
~ Juerg P Muff, cert. Diamond Grader GAA
Please do not hesitate to contact me if you need a bit more help with deciding on the 4 C’s or choosing
your diamond. According to your budget and specification I can guarantee that I will supply you with the best diamond your money can buy. Making this your Brilliant Choice”
**The criteria for diamond grading, most respected internationally, was developed by the Gemological Institute of America (G.I.A.). The terminology and systems described on these pages are based on those of the G.I.A.
Source: G.I.A., G.A.A. Practical diamond grading, JWNZ,B.I.C.
